Soft fold collar



Jim 16, 1936.

R. HUNTER SOFT FO D COLLAR Filed May 24, 1955 2 Sheets-Sheet l swam kw June 16, 1936. R. HUNTER SOFT FOLD COLLAR Filed May 24, 1935 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented an. 16, 1936 I UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SOFT FOLD COLLAR Ralph Hunter, New York, N. Y., assignor to Hall, Hartwell & 00., Troy, N. Y., a corporation of New York Application May 24. 1935-, Serial No. 23,299

4 Claims. (01. 2-131 requisite stiffness.

The present invention relates to the type of collar in which the material forming the outer plies may be the same in color and quality as the shirt to which the collar is attached, and in which the desired rigidity is imparted to the collar by superimposing this thin material on a heavier and stifier ply to insure the collar retaining its desired shape and appearance when worn. A collar of this type is disclosed in the patents to Hunter, Nos. 1,735,399, granted November 12, 1929, and 1,642,858, granted September 20,1927.

An object of the invention is to provide a collar of the fold-over type with a band having an inportions and a multiple ply top having the outer or exposed ply of light pliable material and the inner ply of heavy stifl. material.

Another object is to provide a fold-over tophaving an intermediate or medial two-ply portion and three-ply end portions, one of the twoply portions preferably being formed of commercially shrunk stifl. and heavy fabric and the other ply of relatively light flexible material. In my improved collar the heavy material is exposed preferably intermediate the ends-of both the top and band at the inner side of the foldover top and the outer side of the band. Hence the stiffening ply is concealed when the top is folded to overlap the band but is visible to display the fine quality and workmanship of the finished collar when the top is lifted.

Another object of the invention is to provide a collar which has all the desirable attributes of a three-ply collar but is more economical to manufacture and is lighter in weight and lessbulky than a three-ply collar.

A collar having three plies with the intermediate ply having a different coeiiicient of shrinkage than the outer plies is disclosed in the above than the stiffening ply embodiedin my improved collar.

I have found that the heavier the fabric employed in forming the intermediate or stiffening ply the better fitting and more attractive will be the collar when applied to the neck of the wearer. Furthermore, I have found that by manufacturing a three-ply collar having a medial or intermediate two-ply portion, the use of a much heavier stiffening fabric is practicable and a substantial saving in material is eifected. In other words, if a third ply were employed to completely cover the stiifening ply, it would cause the collar to assume a bulky and unsightly shape and would also require the use of a much lighter intermediate ply or lining. H

Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent from the following description when taken in conjunction with the accompanying claims and drawings.

Referring to the drawings in which are shown several preferred embodiments of the invention, termediate two-ply portion and three-ply end line 2-2 of Figure 1;

Figure 31s a sectional view taken along the line 3-3 of Figure 1;

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken along the line 4-4 of Figure '1;

Figure 5 is a plan; view of a modified form of the collar with the top open out flat;

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figure 5 of a further modification;

Figure '7 is a sectional view taken substantially along the line 1-1 of Figure 5 with the top in its folded over position;

Figure 8 is a sectional view taken substantially along the line 8-8 of Figure 6 with the top in its overlapping position.

Referring to the drawings in which like numerals indicate like parts in the several views, l0 designates the'band and ii the fold-over top of my improved collar. The band is preferably formed with an intermediate or medial two-ply portion including the inner ply I! of light pliable unshrunk material which is arranged to be positioned adjacent the neck of the wearer ,(Figure 2) and an'outer stiffening ply l3 preferably of commercially shrunk material and heavier than the ply i2. The plies i2 and I3 are coextensive in length and extend beyond the wings M of the fold-over top H. Each end of the stiffening ply l3 ispreferably covered by a third ply |5 which extends a limited distance beneath the top and preferably is of the same thin material as the ply l2. The plies l2, l3 and I5 are provided with inturned marginal edges |1 between which is received the upper edge l8 of the shirt I 9 so as to be secured thereto by the stitching 20. The inturned edges of the heavy ply I3 and the outer end plies l5 may additionally be secured by the stitching 2| while the light inner ply l2 may further be secured to the shirt I9 by the stitching 2| (Figure 3). The top Il may be formed with an inner or under relatively heavy ply 22 such as the material of the band ply l3, while the outer thin ply 23 of the top may be formed of the same fabric as the ply l2 and shirt l9. Plies 22 and 23 are preferably formed with coincident circumferential and transverse edges which at their lower ends and opposed sides are enveloped by a binder or strip of fabric 24 (Figure 2) connected thereto by the stitching 25. The lower circumferential edges and the transverse edges of the top II are inturned as at 26 and connected by the stitching 21 to form a marginal hem so as to render the lower portion of the top and wings I 4 relatively still and insure these parts retaining their curvilinear shape. trimmed edges of the strips 22 and 23 of the top H extend between the inturned edges 28 of the plies l2, l3, and I5, respectively, and are secured thereto by the stitching 29 at a point adjacent the fold line 3|] (Figure 2) so as to form a smooth seam. In order that the wings |4 may assume and retain their proper shape when the top is folded to overlap the band, the heavy ply 22 preferably is shorter at its ends or points 3| (Figure 1) than the thin ply 23 so that when the marginal edges are inturned to assume the position as shown by the wing or point M on the left side of the collar in Figure 1, the pointed portion 32 of the wing will assume a compact smooth shape without causing any wrinkling or bulging thereof which would interfere with the otherwise attractive appearance of the collar. As will be observed (Fig. 1) the point 3| of the under or inner ply terminates short of the end or point of the outer ply, so that when the latter is folded over and around the point of the inner ply, the point is stiffened and formed by the inner'ply. The bound edges which are folded over the inner ply overlap at the point as clearly shown in Figure 1. The inner ply or lining 22 of the foldover top is of very much heavier material than the outer ply 23, and as shown, is also heavier than the ply l3 of the band. Preferably the inner ply 22 of the top is made of a piece of fabric of 10 ounces per square yard while the outside ply of the top of the same size, is less than 4 ounces in weight. The two plies of the top are arranged to be folded over on one plane so as to maintain or keep the outer ply smoothly against the heavier inner ply, thus the heavier inner ply acts to control the shrinkage and appearance of the-collar.

The ends of the band it) are preferably tapered as at 33 and are connected together in any suitable fashion, such as by the button 34 secured to one end-of the band so as to pass through analigned opening in the other end.

In order that a tie may be retained in its proper position when attached to the collar, strips 35 may be positioned adjacent the inner heavy ply of the top H between the inturned edges and secured thereto by the stitching 21 (Figure 1) Additional stiffness and rigidity may The upper un-- be imparted to the collar by quilting the band with the longitudinal rows of stitching 21'.

As will be seen, the inner ply I2 of the band and the outer ply 23 of the top are formed or cut from soft, expensive commercially unshrunk material, while the intermediate ply l3 of the band and the inner ply 22 of the top are cut from a relatively heavy and stiff piece of material which has been previously shrunk. The end plies l5 which conceal the heavy ply 22 is preferably formed from the same light material as the piles l2 and 23. It has been found that by attaching the fine light material in its unshrunk or natural condition to an inner ply of heavy, commercially shrunk fabric, that the outer ply will shrink when the shirt is laundered and will be stretched so as to assume a smooth and attractive appearance over the inner ply and will retain its proper shape when the collar is applied to the neck of the wearer. s

In the modified form of the invention shown in Figure 5, the band 35 of the collar is substantially similar in construction to the form previously described, and includes an intermediate two-ply portion consisting of an inner ply 31 of relatively light pliable material of the same color and texture as the body of the shirt 38, and an outer ply 39 (Figure 7) of relatively stiff and heavy material, while the end portions are formed of three plies composed of the plies 31 and 39 together with the ply 40 which extends a limited distance inwardly. These plies are provided with lower-inturned edges 4| between which extend the upper portion 'of the shirt 38 so as to be secured thereto by the stitching 42. The top of the collar is likewise formed with an inner ply 43 of heavy material and an outer exposed ply 44 of light material while the ends of the top are additionally provided with inner third plies 45 which extend from the ends only a limited distance so as to provide the top with an intermediate or medial two-ply portion and three-ply end portions. The upper longitudinal edges of the plies in the fold-over top extend within the space between the inturned edges of the band plies and are secured thereto by the stitching 46 adjacent the fold line 01' the collar. The other or lower longitudinal edge of the topmay be inturned and provided with the tape 41 which is connected thereto by the stitching 48 (Figure 7). The lower inturned edge is preferably connected to the top by theline of stitching 48' so that the collar inits final form will possess the necessary stifiness and rigidity to properly retain its shape when worn.

In the form of the invention illustrated in Figure 6, the band of the collar is provided with an intermediate two-ply portion and three-ply end portions. The two-ply portion'includes the inner band ply 48 (Figure 8) of light material and the intermediate ply 50 of heavy material and the outer or end plies 5| of the same material as the inner ply 49. The top of the collar islikewise formed with an intermediate heavy ply 52, an outer ply 53 and a ply 54 which is cut out so as to form anarrow longitudinal ,and marginal portion 55 which connects the endslof the ply 54. This construction renders visible the heavy ply 52 and lightens the weight of the collar. The marginal inner edge of the cut-out portion of the 'ing means for insuring the collar'retaining its desired shape when worn. Otherwise, the collar jected to a laundering process, which due to the stiffness of the heavy material, will insure the collar retaining its desired shape and curvature while the shrinking of the light material will impart a smooth unwrinkled and attractive appearance to the collar. Moreover, as the intermediate or stifiening ply is visible when the collar is not in use, the fine quality and design thereof may readily be observed by the purchaser when the collar is on display. While I haveshown the invention applied to the manufacture of collars, it may equally be employed in the making of cuffs, bands and similar articles.

It is to be understood that the forms of the invention shown and described are merely illustrative and that such changes may be made as fall within the purview of one skilled in the art without departing from the spirit of the invention and the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A collar of the soft, shirt-attached type comprising a band and a two ply fold-over top, said top consisting of an outer ply of relatively light material and an under ply of relatively stiff, heavier material, said plies being arranged with substantially coincident, circumferential and transverse edges except at the points, the under ply at the points terminating short of the point of the outer ply, the coincident, transverse and longitudinal edges being folded over against the heavier ply whereby the latter acts to control the shrinkage and appearance of the top, and the folded edges being overlapped at the points over and around the point of the under ply whereby the under ply forms and stitl'ens the outline of the collar point, and stitching securing the folded edges against the heavier ply.

2. A collar of the soft, shirt-attached type comprising a band and a two ply fold over top, said top consisting of an outer ply of? relatively light material and an under ply of relatively stiff, heavier material, said plies being arranged with substantially coincident, circumferential and transverse edges except at the points, the under ply at the points terminating shortof the point of the outer ply, the coincident, transverse and longitudinal edges being folded over against the heavier ply whereby the latter acts to control the shrinkage and appearance of the top, a binding on the transverse and circumferential folded edges of said plies uniting the same, the outer ply edges being overlapped at the points over and around the point of the under ply whereby the under ply forms and stiifens the outline of the' collar point, and stitching securing the folded edges against the heavier ply.-

3. A collar including a multiple ply band and a two ply fold-over top, said top having its inner ply of relatively stiff and heavy commercially shrunk material and its outer ply of relatively .light pliable unshrunk material, the two ply margins of the top being intumed and terminating in pointed ends, the inner heavy-lining ply of the top adjacent the pointed ends being formed so that when the outer ply is folded thereover and stitched to the top, the pointed ends will assume a smooth flat shape, a line of stitching connecting the folded outer ply to the inner ply of the top, said band having three ply end portions provided with outer plies of light unshrunk material and an exposed ply of heavy shrunk material extending between said end portions, the

plies of the top being folded over on one plane so as to keep the outer ply smoothly against the heavier inner ply, the upper ends of the top plies .substantially coincident, circumferential and transverse edges except at the points, the under ply at the points terminating short of the point of the outer ply, the coincident, transverse and longitudinal edges being folded over against the heavier ply whereby the latter acts to control the shrinkage and appearance of the top, a binding on the transverse and circumferential folded edges of said plies uniting the same, said binding at the points extending along and covering the edges of the outer ply alone where the same is folded over the heavier ply, the outer ply edges being overlapped at the points over and around the point of the under ply whereby the under ply forms and stiflfens the outline of the collar point, and stitching securing the folded edges against the heavier ply.

. RALPH HUNTER; 

